If you think your unit needs repair, in nearly all cases we can send you a user-replaceable part or board that will allow you to fix it yourself. The first thing to do is read the Possible Repair Problems and Solutions section below to see if it's a simple fix. Then contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org with 1) your serial number and 2) a clear description of the exact problem, and we'll help you figure out whether it's in warranty and if not, what's the fastest and cheapest way to fix it.
If any of the problems listed below require parts, you can either buy them from us (minimum parts charge $20) or in many cases (as described below) buy them much cheaper from www.digikey.com. After looking below, if you need further help, answers or need to order parts, contact us at email@example.com.
For the cases where it would be cheaper to have your circuit board repaired that replaced, our only authorized service center is www.vstservice.com in Los Angeles.
As reliable as AdrenaLinn I, II and III are, some problems have occurred. Here are some of the problems we've seen along with suggested solutions.
If the panel lights appear to work correctly, the outputs produce some sound, and turning any knob or pressing any button produces a change in the lights, but you think something is wrong
There's a good chance that nothing's wrong but you may have accidentally changed a setting and don't know how to change it back. If you don't mind losing any presets or drumbeats you've created, try initializing your unit to factory-new status: while holding both foot switches, connect power, then continue to hold both for about three seconds until the display shows 'ini', then release.
If your unit is working OK but you think a specific features isn't working correctly
Your unit may be running an early software version that contained some bugs. Check the Support page for your model (AdrenaLinn, AdrenaLinn II or AdrenaLinn III) and click the Software Versions button to learn if you have the latest version and how to update.
If the unit doesn’t function, but shows “dSP” a few seconds after powering on:
In most cases, this means that the smaller of the two plug-in chips on the circuit board has failed and needs to be replaced:
If you have AdrenaLinn III running version 3.0.3 software, replace only the small v303 chip.
If you have AdrenaLinn III running version 3.0.2 software or earlier (or you don't know), replace both chips with new v303 chips.
If you have AdrenaLinn II, replace both chips with current version 2.1.2 chips.
If you have AdrenaLinn I, replace both chips with current version 1.5/1.6 chips.
It's also possible in an older unit that the pins on the smaller of the two plug-in chips aren't making good contact with the socket, and often placing a small 1/16 inch spacer under the chip causes it to make better contact. To do this, use our Chip Change Instructions as a guide. Start by removing the smaller chip. (Instead of the chip removal tool shown in the instructions, you can use a pushpin or the unfolded end of a paper clip.) For the needed spacer, a cutout from the cardboard back of a pad of paper works well. Place the spacer into the bottom of the socket, then reinsert the chip into the socket on top of the spacer. Connect power and try it out to see if this fixed it.
If the panel lights appear random when power is connected
This usually means that the internal computers are not starting correctly. In an older unit, this may be due to the 2 internal plug-in chips not making good contact with their sockets. To clean the sockets, use our Chip Change Instructions to disassemble your AdrenaLinn, then simply remove and reinsert the 2 plug-in chips. (Instead of the chip removal tool shown in the instructions, you can use a pushpin or the unfolded end of a paper clip.) Removing and reinserting the chips will clean the pins on the chip and socket and may fix the problem. Also, sometimes the smaller of the two plug-in chips isn't making good contact with the socket, and placing a small 1/16 inch spacer (for example, a piece of thin cardboard) under the chip may cause it to make better contact.
If the above doesn't work, it is possible that one or both of the 2 plug-in chips has failed. You can order a new set of chips for your AdrenaLinn model from our online store.
If neither of the above fixes the problem, this usually indicates a fault in the circuit board. It is more expensive to repair the circuit board than to purchase a new circuit board from us, which costs $200 and replaces all internal electronics except the 2 plug-in chips. In that case, contact us about obtaining a new circuit board.
If the unit sometimes stops outputting all sound, fixed only by power off and on:
This seems to be due to early AdrenaLinn units being more sensitive to high static electricity shocks than we'd prefer. At this time the only solution is to--during periods of high static electricity--insultate the two foot switches with tape and use audio cables with insulated jacks instead of metal ones. Sorry we don't yet have a better answer.
If one of the rotary encoders doesn't function, or only increments or only decrements :
Turning any rotary encoder should cause the 3-digit display to change (in most operation modes). To test, press MAIN, then turn the encoder in both directions. It should decrement the display value when turned left and increment it when turned right. If it only increments in both directions or only decrements in both directions, or does nothing, the rotary encoder is faulty and needs replacement. Please contact us to arrange for repair at your nearest service center.
Or if you are familiar with soldering electronics and would like to replace it yourself, you can either buy the part from us ($20 minimum parts charge) or buy the same part (a Panasonic EVE-GA1F1724B) for around $1 from www.digikey.com. To replace it, you'll need a soldering iron, Desoldering Pump (usually around $10), long-nose pliers and diagonal cutters. Here are the steps:
1) Using the diagonal cutters, cut the 5 pins that hold the faulty encoder to the board and discard it. (Don't try to unsolder the encoder's 5 pins at once; you won't be able to keep them all hot at the same time.)
2) Remove each of the 5 cut pins from the board one at a time by heating it and using long-nose pliers to gently pull it out. (Don't pull hard as you may damage a circuit board trace, making the entire board useless.)
3) Using the desoldering pump, suck all solder out of the 5 holes.
4) Place the new encoder into the 5 holes and, pressing it flush to the board, solder all 5 pins.
If any audio jack is loose or starts/stops working when wiggled:
This is usually caused by a hard cable pull, and usually happens to the Input jack as a result of a hard pull on guitar cable. To fix it, you'll need to replace the audio jack. Please contact us to find your nearest service center.
Or if have a local service center you like or you are familiar with soldering electronics and would like to replace it yourself, you can try it but this is a difficult repair because the jack is secured by 4 soldered pins that are close to other small components, so it's easy to damage the board or these other small parts if not done correctly. If you wish to attempt to replace the jack yourself, you can buy a replacement jack from us ($20 minimum parts charge). Please specify whether your unit has a Phones jack or not because different audio jacks are used. To replace the jack, you'll need a soldering iron and Desoldering Pump (usually around $20). Here are the steps:
1) Using the soldering iron and desoldering tool, remove the solder from the jack's 4 mounting pins. Using low-temp solder is helpful because it stays molten longer and therefore allow you to keep all 4 pins molten and more easily remove the jack.
2) Remove the damaged jack. (If it doesn't come out easy, don't pull the jack hard as you may damage a circuit board trace, making the entire board useless.)
3) Place the new jack into the 4 mounting holes and, pressing it flush to the board, solder all 4 pins.
If no panel lights turn on and nothing is heard in outputs when power is connected, or if you connected the wrong power supply and think you may have damaged your unit:
First, if you're not using the included AdrenaLinn power supply, check your supply to see if it meets AdrenaLinn III's power requirements: 9 volts DC, at least 500 milliamps, and the round connector at the AdrenaLinn side must fit correctly and the center conductor MUST be positive, not negative like Roland power supplies. (Connecting a center-negative supply like those from Roland will likely damage your AdrenaLinn.)
Next, test the power supply to see if it's working, putting out approximately 9 volts DC. If you don't have a voltmeter, here's a simple test: touch the end of the round connector to your tongue. If it's working, you should feel a mild shock, just as if you touched a 9 volt battery to your tongue.
If your power supply is working and your AdrenaLinn shows no lights when power is connected, this usually means that you accidentally connected the wrong power supply, which damaged one or more of AdrenaLinn's power components. To verify this, disassemble the unit and remove the circuit board, then check the area near the power connector but on the opposite side of the board. Do any of the small parts appear burnt? Here's a photo of how the board should appear. Usually, one of the following parts will be damaged:
"SD1": Diodes Inc. SMBJ12A-13 (zener TVS, unidirl 12 volt 600W)
"D23": Diodes Inc. B340-13 (Schottky diode 40V 3A SMC)
"FB12" or "FB13": HI1206N101R-10 (ferrite bead 3A 100 ohm size 1206)
If you do see damage, then your AdrenaLinn needs repair. Please contact us to arrange for repair at your nearest service center.
Or if are familiar with soldering electronics (or have a local service center you like) and would like to save some money, you can buy the above parts and install them yourself. You can either contact us to buy the parts (minimum parts charge $20) or buy the same parts from www.digikey.com for less than $1.
If the PHONES output produces loud static noise but the stereo outputs sound OK:
Before approximately serial number A08250, we had a circuit design error that could cause this problem, though rarely. Please contact us to arrange for repair at your nearest service center.
Or if are familiar with soldering electronics (or have a local service center you like), click here for the very simple solution, requiring soldering a very short wire to the circuit board.
If the INPUT LEVEL potentiometer feels loose and spins freely:
Turning the INPUT LEVEL control with an input signal source connected should change its volume at the output. However, if it feels loose and spins for multiple turns, the black shaft has probably broken off, leaving a small plastic piece in the center hole of the pot. Please contact us to arrange for repair at your nearest service center.
Or, if are familiar with soldering electronics (or have a local service center you like), you can repair it yourself:
1) Contact us to order a new "Input level pot shaft" (minimum parts charge $20). When you receive it:
2) Disassemble the unit (using the "general disassembly instructions" above) and remove the circuit board from the chassis. The black plastic shaft will probably fall out of the chassis and you will see the small broken-off black plastic piece stuck in the center hole of the pot.
3) Notice that the pot has 3 pins-- 2 close to the 3-digit display and a third pin closer to the rear-panel jacks. Unsolder this third pin (which will probably require a desoldering pump) then tilt the pot up on its 2 remaining pins so that it stands perpenticular to the board.
4) Using a pin or paper clip, push it through the rear of the pot's center hole in order to push the broken-off piece out through the front.
5) Bend the pot back to its original position and solder the pin back in place.
6) Push the new "input level pot shaft" into the pot's center hole. Test to insure that it moves only the normal range of the pot.
7) Reassemble the unit.
If one of the four small black buttons doesn't move freely or doesn't produce a firm click when pressed
It is likely that the front panel label was attached to the chassis with poor alignment, probably when our AdrenaLinn II or III upgrade kit was installed. To test this, disassemble the unit and remove the circuit board, then press the same button. If it moves freely now, then the fault is the label alignment. To fix it, carefully remove the front panel label and reattach it as described in the AdrenaLinn III Upgrade Kit Installation Instructions.
If one of the four small black buttons moves freely and produces a firm click, but produces no response when pressed
To test the MAIN, UP ARROW and DOWN ARROW buttons, alternately press MAIN or UP ARROW, then alternately press MAIN and DOWN ARROW. Each press should cause a change in the panel lights. To test the SEQUENCER button, repeatedly press the DOWN ARROW button until the DRUMS row is lit, then repeatedly press SEQUENCER. Each press of SEQUENCER should cause a change in the panel lights. If not, then the button is faulty and needs to be replaced. Please contact us to arrange for repair at your nearest service center.
Or if are familiar with soldering electronics (or have a local service center you like), please contact us to order the replacement switch (minimum parts charge $20) and do the simple installation yourself.
If you suspect a faulty foot switch:
Pressing the 2 foot switches should change the status of the lights near each switch. It is possible to set certain parameters so that this does not happen, so if either light doesn’t change, contact us and we’ll tell you how to verify that it's broken or working, and if necessary, how to get it repaired.
There are 3 AdrenaLinn models: AdrenaLinn, AdrenaLinn II and AdrenaLinn III. The hardware for all models is nearly identical, containing a single circuit board with all components, mounted in a metal chassis with an adhesive front panel label. There are 2 versions of the circuit board:
1) Serial numbers up to A02199: these units contain a circuit board with no Phones output.
2) Serial numbers A02200 and above:: these units contain a circuit board that is identical to the original board but with 1) a phones output and phones amp added, and 2) different 1/4" jacks with no panel nuts.
Because the two circuit boards are identical except for the Phone jack/amp, any hardware repair issues are nearly the same for all three products.
The different models are:
Serial numbers A00001 to A02199:
These units were originally released as “AdrenaLinn” (original model) units and have the circuit board without headphone jack and an indigo blue chassis without a headphone jack hole. Many of these units have been converted to AdrenaLinn II or AdrenaLinn III by with our “AdrenaLinn II (or III) Upgrade Kit”.
Serial numbers A02200 to A05722:
These units were originally released as “AdrenaLinn” (original model) units and have the circuit board with headphone jack and an indigo blue chassis containing a hole for the headphone jack. Many of these units have been converted to AdrenaLinn II or AdrenaLinn III by with our “AdrenaLinn II (or III) Upgrade Kit”.
Serial numbers A05723 to approximately A08250:
These units were originally released as “AdrenaLinn II” and have the circuit board with headphone jack but with a black chassis containing a hole for the headphone jack. However, many of these units have been converted to AdrenaLinn III by our “AdrenaLinn III Upgrade Kit”.
Serial numbers from approximately A08250 and above:
These units were originally released as “AdrenaLinn III” and have the circuit board with headphone jack but with a black chassis containing a hole for the headphone jack.
This description is not necessary for simple repairs, but provided for those who want to know more about the circuit operation in order to attempt a more complex repair. It references the AdrenaLinn circuit board schematics, which can be download above. Note that AdrenaLinn I, II and III all use one of two circuit boards as described above.
The AdrenaLinn processes audio entirely digitally. The only analog circuitry is the mono input preamp and stereo output amplifier. Here is a general description of the schematic.
The instrument signal comes in through the INPUT jack and is amplified by op amp U1 (page 1). The gain of the input op amp is set by potentiometer VR1. Circuit boards with no headphone jack contain high-frequency pre-emphasis in the feedback of U1; boards with headphones do not. The output of U1 goes to the CODEC U2 (page 1), a Crystal CS4224-KS. This CODEC uses 24-bit conversion and runs internally at 40 kHz, set by the 15.36 mHz crystal Y1.
The digital output of the codec’s A/D converter is passed serially to the DSP processor U8 (page 2), an Analog Devices ADSP-2186 running internally at 77.8 mHz from ½ speed clock supplied by U5, a 38.868 mHz clock generator. All sound processing and sound generation is done in the DSP processor.
The microcontroller U14 (page 2), a Microchip PIC16F877 in AdrenaLinn or PIC18F452 in AdrenaLinn II and III, performs all functions except sound processing, including scanning of the 4 rotary encoders (ENC1-4 on page 3), updating LED displays (page 3), sequencer timing, general system functions, user data saving and loading, MIDI processing (page 3), etc. The microcontroller runs at 15.36 mHz, set by the same crystal that clocks the codec. The microcontroller communicates bi-directionally with the DSP processor, primarily sending commands and data about when and how to process the sound. The software for this processor is stored in the chip’s on-board flash memory. Updating this software in all AdrenaLinn models requires changing the chip or updating over MIDI.
Except for 6 of the discrete LEDs, all other LEDs are driven by the Micrel MM5450BV (U4 on page 3), an LED driver chip with serial input (from the microcontroller) and 37 latched LED driver outputs.
The flash memory chip in U11, a Solid State Technology SST39VF020-90 4C-NH (AdrenaLinn) or SST39VF040-70 (AdrenaLinn II and III), is connected to the DSP and holds all drum samples, factory and user preset and drumbeat data, and the DSP operating software. On power-up, the DSP processor automatically loads the DSP operating system from this flash memory chip into its onboard program RAM.
The DSP processor sends its stereo output serially to the codec U2 (page 1), where it is converted to analog signals and buffered by the op amp U3 (page 1).
If no plug is inserted into the right output jack, both left and right output signals are mixed in the left output. The sensing of whether the right jack is inserted is performed differently in “no headphone” than “With headphones” circuit boards:
For “no headphones” circuit boards:
Mounted on the RIGHT OUTPUT jack are an infrared LED, D24, and infrared sensor, Q1 (both on page 2). If the jack is not inserted, the light from the LED is passed to the receiver, sending a digital ‘low’ signal to the input pin 27 of the DSP, causing the DSP to mix both stereo outputs to mono in the left output. However, if a jack is inserted the infrared light is not received, sending a digital high signal to the DSP pin and causing the DSP to send normal stereo output signals.
For “with headphones” circuit boards:
If no plug is inserted in the right output jack, the jack’s tip connects to its ring, mixing the right output signal (buffered by U3C) with the left in U3B.
The AdrenaLinn receives its power from a wall-mounted unregulated DC power supply of 9 volts DC, though early AdrenaLinn units shipped with a 7.5 volt supply.. Internally, three DC voltages are derived from the external power as shown on page 1 of the schematic:
+5v: Used for all logic and analog audio, except as follows:
+3.3v: Used by DSP, CODEC and flash memory chip, and LEDs
+2.5v: Used by DSP